Black&Tan Siamese Frequently Asked Questions

We are located on two and a half acres in beautiful New England. Our Cape Cod style home in on a wooded hillside in in central Massachusetts, just minutes from Worcester.

2) How are your kittens raised? Are they alone all day while you're away? How much are they handled?

Our girls and kittens have the run of our home. We are home with them 24/7. You can read our online kitten diaries to see how we manage each litter. The birthing room is where I have my desk and computer. Newborn kittens are kept in a nest until they are ready to walk about. Then we use portable fencing to limit a safe area while the kittens learn to use the litter box and are weaned to solid food. This is a quick process that usually takes a couple of weeks. We handle the kittens from the day they are born. We weigh them each day to be sure they are thriving and getting enough milk from mom. When they are tiny our touch is very gentle and is mostly a finger stroke and nesting them in our hand. A cats temperament is part nature and part nurture. We strive to make our nurturing a loving positive experience. Once the kittens are walking about and playing we try to spend time with them each time they are awake. Kittens are growing and like human babies they sleep alot. Their wake sleep cycle is a very active one. Once they master their basic skills and have the run of the house we take turns seeking each other out for interaction throughout the day. I am watching four week old kittens play while I type this. :)

3) Will my kitten/cat be examined by a veterinarian before placement?

Yes, all kittens are seen by Dr. Schaefer at Apple Country Animal Hospital in Stow and their health is guaranteed. All kittens receive age-appropriate vaccines before placement. You will be given a health record showing your kitten/cat's current immunizations. It will be your responsibility to continue the series we have begun. Half an immunization series is worthless and puts your kitten's health in danger.

5) Will I have to spay/neuter my kitten?

All of our pet kittens go to homes already spay/neutered. The cost of this surgery is covered in our all inclusive fee. Early age altering (spays and neuters done between the ages of 8 and 16 weeks instead of the conventional 5-7 months) has been practiced for over 25 years in North America. We believe in early spay/neutering. The American Veterinary Medical Association has approved the technique. Several studies have been done, including one by Angell Memorial Hospital in Boston that showed that the lowest incidence of postoperative complications was in the early age group. I am shocked at how many Vets still will not consider pediatric spay & neuter surgery. You can do your part to spread the word. This online article is full of valuable information Early age spay/neuter by Dr. Dave Sweeney

6) Do you use a written sales contract with a health guarantee?

Yes, A contract is an excellent way to make sure everyone has an understanding of our transaction.

7) Do you cage your cats/kittens?

To answer this question we need to define cage. Per the USDA (Animal Welfare Act and Regulations) definition, a cats primary enclosure must be at least 24 in. high. Cats up to and including 8.8 lbs must be provided with at least 3.0 ft\2\. Some states also have similar minimum size standards. We feel these standards fall short. We do not cage in this way!

Our adult female cats have the run of the house. I prefer to raise kittens in my office where I spend most of my time. I use a kittening, or birthing box, when my litters first start out. Isolating my pregnant queen in my office is a means of giving the queen a safe and comfortable place to give birth and nurse. She is allowed to leave the room when she is ready. Other cats are not allowed to enter until the kittens are more mature. The kittens are housed in a nest in the birthing box until they begin to walk about, usually around 3-4 weeks of age. At this point they are allowed to explore the room. For the safety of our kittens we then set up a run area about six feet by six feet and the office door is opened. The kittens will stay in this area until they are litter trained. This takes about 1 week. Kittens are then socialized with the rest of the household. Our kittens must be mature enough to leave Mom before we will allow them to go to homes. This occurs generally around 12 weeks give or take a few weeks. For a more in depth look at the birth and growth of a litter of our kittens read our kitten diaries.

We will not allow our cats to produce unwanted, unplanned offspring. A stud left to roam free in a home will spray urine inside the home to mark his territory. One breeder told me his stud would spray him in the face whenever he entered his room. Therefore our Studs have their own (12' x 6', 8' ceiling) apartment. We have a walk out basement and their apartments are on that level. Their rooms are designed for their needs. Balor has two large cat condos and a window, with a cat shelf, that is open on nice days. Kian has one multi level condo and three long shelves. He is a high places guy so the shelves serve his needs better. He also has his own window that is opened on nice days. The two opposing walls are open mesh that allows free flow of air and an open view of the entire level. This level has its own door to go outside. Yes I allow my stud outside, Balor is harness-leash trained and looks forward to his walks outside. This allows him to maintain his territory. An intact dominate male cat needs to maintain his territory to avoid inappropriate aggression. He is allowed to interact with the girls when on leash when no female is in heat. Usually his interests run more toward walking his territory. Kian is leash training. His progress has been slower then Balor's because Kian prefers to sit in my lap and be loved on. The needs of a stud have to be carefully looked after if he is to remain happy and free of behavioral problems. A photo of Balor's stud room is included in his Blog

8) Can I let my cat outside?

The answer to this is yes and no. Any cat purchased from us must be an indoor cat. New England has an ever more present population of coyotes. We also have Fisher and Fox. Tower Hill Botanic Garden reports sightings of black bear and bobcats. Cats are a delicious snacks for them. In addition they are susceptible to automobile accidents, diseases like Feline leukemia and FIV endemic in the stray cat population. Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) the feline equivalent of human AIDS is found in 25% of all stray unneutered male cats.

You may take your cat outside in a properly fitting harness, on leash and supervised at all times. There are times when no matter how careful you are your cat may slip outside, accidents happen. A cat that has never been out will be terribly frightened and may bolt, running until they are lost. I encourage owners to familiarize their inside cats with the area around their home. By becoming familiar with the sites and sounds they will know they can return to their house and find the door in to their safe refuge. Your cat should never be put on a leash tied in the yard. Siamese are intelligent cats and when left like this can wiggle out of the harness. I have seen it done. Therefore we ask that your cat remain indoors unless it is in a properly fitting harness, on leash with the leash in your hand.

9) What color kittens do you have?

Our goal is to specialize in the seal point Siamese. Seal points are the color most people think of when referring to Siamese. They have dark brown (almost black) seal color points and pale fawn (light tan) bodies that darken as they age. Our Siamese also carry the recessive dilute and chocolate genes. This allows us to offer seal points, chocolate points, blue points, and rarely a lilac point. Blue point (bluish-white (light gray) body with slate blue (darker gray) points) is the dilute form of seal point. Lilac (white body with pale chocolate/ pinkish points) is the dilute of chocolate (ivory body with milk chocolate points) For more information on coat colors please read our Siamese genes and color page.

With the pairing of our Sire Balor (aaBbc^sc^s) and Queen Maeve (aaBbc^sc^s) or Queen Finola (aaBbc^sc^s) we can expect to see the following percentages over time.

    56% Seal point
    19% Blue point
    19% Chocolate point
    6% Lilac point

Our chocolate point queen Keva (daughter of Maeve and Balor) had her first litter with our seal point stud Kian. We know that Kian carries the chocolate gene. We will be watching to see if they produce any blue points or lilac points in future litters. They both have the possibility of carrying the dilute from their parents.

What are points? Points refer to the ears, face, paws, and tail.

10) Do your kittens ever have crossed eyes or kinked tails?

Crossed eyes, kinked tails, and white toes are considered cosmetic faults. These cosmetic faults have been present in the Siamese gene pool for more then 70 years. Breeders of Siamese work to eliminate serious health and personality faults from their lines first, then work on cosmetic faults. As with any recessive genes the gene causing faults can remain hidden and passed on for generations only to resurface again. Siamese are known to have Strabismus and Nystagmus. Siamese of today rarely show severely crossed eyes. Breeders do however see mild cases from time to time. The brain of a Siamese with mildly crossed eyes adapts and the cat has no visual difficulty. The same holds true for a kink in the tail. Recessive faults only show up when both of the parents carry the fault and both pass the gene onto a kitten. Breeders hope they don't see it expressed but it does happen. Many breeders whose cats carry a fault breed to cats who aren't carriers so no one ever knows the fault is there. We feel it is better to carry a cosmetic fault in loving, healthy, good outcross lines then to carry a medical or behavioral genetic fault in cosmetically perfect lines.

11) My friend told me her friends cat scratches the carpet and pulls out its nails. Do Siamese cats pull out their claws?

This is a common misconception. Cat’s claws grow in layers. When the outer husk is shed they are not pulling out their claws. Shedding does not hurt the cat’s paw.

Will they scratch up my home? Cats scratch for several reasons. To remove the dead outer husks from their claws, to exercise the muscles in their legs, shoulders, and backs, and to mark territory, visually and with scent from glands in their paws. This scent is not detectable to humans but other cats can smell it. Like children who know no better cats need to be directed and sometimes redirected to scratch on surfaces that both the cat and owner find mutually acceptable. Scratching posts are the most effective way to keep your kitten from scratching good furniture. Not all scratching posts are created equal. Cat owners often make the mistake of buying the least expensive post. These are usually too short and tip over easily. Given a choice of an inadequate post and the back of a sofa, most cats will choose the sofa. A good post needs to be securely anchored so it will not tip when in use. It should also be a minimum of three feet tall so cats can stretch themselves while scratching. It should be covered with a strong rugged material like sisal, or hemp, or if your cat prefers, carpet similar to the one she has been scratching in your family room. I recommend cat condos (furniture). This gives your kitten a place of her own and can have a scratching post built in.

You can decrease the amount of husk removal scratching, often mistaken as sharpening of claws, your cat does by clipping your cat’s claws regularly. Clipping removes the tip of the claw and in the process the dead husk if there is one covering the new sharper nail. It also removes the needle like ripping tool your cat uses and creates a rounded blunt nail that when used to scratch does little to no damage. If their claws are clipped every few weeks as needed cats will have less need to scratch but it will not remove scratching entirely. Cats will still want a good scratch every now and then just because it feels good. Redirecting your cat's attention to a scratching post will keep harmony in your cat and owner relationship.

12) How can I get my cat to use its scratching post?

Your kitten will already be trained to a scratching post when it is ready to go to its new home. Having a scratching post in your home before your kitten arrives is the best way to reinforce its good behavior. To teach your kitten to use its new scratching post requires some interaction from you. Playing with your kitten near the post with a feather toy and dragging the feather up the post will entice your kitten into the scratching motion. Continue doing this above kitty's head height and allow her to miss catching the toy so that her claws sink into the post. After doing this three or four times she will realize how good it feels. Remember to allow her to catch the toy once or twice so she won't lose interest in the game. As she plays encourage her to climb higher by lifting the toy higher. Play this game three or four times a day and soon your kitten will be using your post all on her own. Some books suggest you press your kittens paws into the post, don't. Cats cannot be forced into any activity and this negative reinforcement will more likely turn kitty away from the post. I have found it effective to use my own hands on the post to simulate scratching. My cats will come running to join me when they hear me making scratching noises on a post.

13) Should I punish my kitty when she is naughty?

No, cats are not like dogs. A cat will not understand why you are behaving the way you are. Punishing a cat will only teach it that it cannot trust you and will lead to far worse behavior problems. Cats who are scared and feel trapped will attack in self defense. Cats need to be encouraged with gentle positive reinforcement. Remember that cats never forget, once you have shown anger to them there is no way of coming back from it. They will always mistrust you. Pressing a cat’s nose into a litter box mistake will only cause her to find a more hidden area next time. Most litter box problems are due to smelly dirty litter boxes or are medically based, i.e. bladder infection often caused by bacteria in a dirty litter box. The best way to prevent litter box mishaps is to keep the box clean and odor free. Cats noses are more sensitive then our noses a perfumed litter may actually drive a cat away from its litter box. If kitty does have a mishap its important to treat the area ASAP. There are many good products on the market. We use Nature’s Miracle and have found this to be an excellent, effective treatment in removing the stain and odor. Have a tough odor you are not able to get rid of? Soak the area with Natures Miracle and cover it with plastic. For the enzymes to work they need to stay moist for at least 48 hours. Odor removal is important because a cat will return to the same spot to eliminate if the smell is there. Smell it but you’re not sure where kitty went? Use a blacklight. Cat urine will glow a greenish-yellow. Remember all protein stains will show with the use of a blacklight, including some cleaning products. The blacklight is an aid to locating the urine. Your nose is the indicator if you have found the spot.

14) Do you ship your kittens?

No, We have had four kittens shipped to us counter to counter and our four flew when we moved here. I have learned that "counter to counter" means different things to different airlines. It is my understanding that pets will only fly in the passenger cabin if you are flying with them and the carrier will fit under the seat. There is the possibility they will move them to cargo if anyone complains. With many airlines, counter to counter means the cats go into the pressurized cargo hold that is not the passenger area of the plane, sometimes temperature controlled and sometimes not. When you call an Airline and ask for information regarding the shipping of pets, the information received is inconsistent, unclear, and confusing. Information on the web is as varied as the answers of Airline employees. Not all of our experiences were positive and as a result, we have chosen not to ship any of our kittens. It would have to be very special circumstances to get us to ship. PetFlight.com has reports of individual airlines and details on pet incidents. For a three month period, prior to my writing this, eleven of the major airlines had a total of 11 pet deaths, 12 pet injuries, and 2 lost pets.

15) What do your kittens cost?

I didn’t initially list cost on my web page because I don’t want it to be a deterrent to what may be a loving forever home for our kittens. The average price of a registered purebred pet kitten runs from $600-$1500 depending on the breed. Show quality and breeding kittens will run higher.

As a child, I would never have known this wonderful breed if it were not for a relative who gave us a Siamese kitten. I am not breeding for profit. I breed because I love this breed and want to promote and preserve these wonderful companions. With this in mind, I offer a scholarship program for families of children with special needs.

I price my kittens to offset the Veterinary and dietary expenses I incur with raising kittens. We have to take into account our fixed expenses as well as the variable expenses associated with keeping breeding cats. There can be high unexpected emergency vet expenses, ultrasounds, hysterotomy. Emergency c-section surgery for Finola was $2200.00. I keep a spread sheet for each litter. Kittens eat about the same amount of food as an adult cat. A 3.5 oz bag of Royal Canin Baby cat costs about $14.00. An expectant mother cat must also eat this and continue to eat it until the kittens are weaned. She will eat up to twice as much her usual meals during her pregnancy (~65 days) and up to three times as much while she is nursing kittens(~52 days) This doesn’t include kitten formula, one can of KRM costs $20.00. Then there are Veterinary visits. All kittens are vaccinated ~ $70.00 (Feline Rhinotracheitis-Calici-Panleukopenia Vaccine) and fecal tests, our cats have never had worms or parasites. Vaccines are necessary preventatives. Kittens are also spay/neutered prior to placement; $55 pre surgery blood work up, $75 for neuter, $135 for spay. Add in Vet visits for the Mom and Dad ......There is also the extra expense of keeping the birthing room 15 degrees warmer, the price of gas keeps going up. Also there are expenses for special equipment, birthing box towels, heated nests, syringes/bottles, training litter pan; registering the cattery name, cats, and litter; and promotion (this website).

There are also expenses for starting and maintaining a breeding program. Books and textbooks for reference can easily cost into the hundreds of dollars, suggested breeders booklist. Purchasing your first registered breeding queen and stud, and later purchasing a cat from new lines to outcross. Add to that an initial veterinary exam about $200 per cat. This includes a physical exam, testing for parasites, blood tests to detect FIV and feline leukemia....... Temporary isolation quarters for any cat entering the household. They must be kept in quarantine, away from other cats for up to 2 weeks. This allows for the incubation period of any illness they may carry. Micro chipping for identification. Building or having a carpenter build a stud apartment. Cleaning supplies and urine neutralizing enzymes, I also use Comfort Zone with Feliway in multiple areas. Initial purchase of one for one month is $40.00 with refills costing $30.00. Then there is the cat furniture (condos, trees, scratching posts, etc) and toys for happiness, exercise, and training. I'm still operating in the red and with emergency vet expenses Maeve's Murphy Litter, Finola's c-section litter and Maeve's Pyometra adding to the deficit.....Also add to this the cost of replacing these queens if they can not conceive again....

I could go on but I hope you get the picture. When you purchase a kitten from me or any other ethical breeder you are helping with some of the expenses of breeding so we can keep the breed going. We call ourselves “hobby” breeders* but in reality it is more of a passion. Anyone who has a passion for their hobby can tell you the costs are high but the rewards are worth it.

16) How and why did you get started with breeding Siamese?

I was born into a Siamese owned family. Our Siamese, Kiti, was born in 1952. She was a constant companion, confidant and love of my life. She was an old style (apple head) Siamese. She lived well into her 20's and with her loss went a part of my heart. My mother brought several litters into the world and I was allowed to witness this wonderful miracle. As a child I dreamt of breeding Siamese like Kiti and sharing this wonderful breed with everyone. We also took in strays and after Kiti's death, I went to my local shelter and adopted other cats thru the years. I knew it was the right thing to do and I was willing to take the cats no one else wanted, the ones with the most baggage. I catered to them and gained their trust and provided them with the best home possible for the remainder of their lives. Thru all their love I still had an empty place in my heart that longed for a cat like Kiti. The other cats just didn't compare. After the death of my last shelter cat I convinced my husband to allow me to purchase a Siamese. I was astonished to find they just weren't available. The cats I was seeing at the cat shows were nothing like the Siamese of the early 1950's. I began searching on the internet and found a breeder in another state. My desire for one Siamese ended up as two, after all two can fly as cheaply as one and the trip might be less stressful if they were together. Magi and Emma became part of our family. My husband began to see what was special about this breed and why I loved them so.

As our children grew my husband wanted a Golden Retriever. We contacted a Golden Retriever rescue looking for a dog. We found a pair of senior life partners that they were having difficulty placing, because they had to stay together and Lady had a colorful medical history and needed medication. We adopted Phillip and Lady on October 1st 2001. Phillip was 9 years old and lady was 7. Lady and Phil were wonderful loving dogs. Within a month of coming to live with us Phil was in surgery to remove a skin tumor. The vet was hopeful that all the margins were clear we were confident he had won this fight when no new tumors appeared. They became hospital therapy dogs. We visited patients in the cancer wing and in rehabilitation. Patients who couldn't use a hand in therapy were suddenly able to use it to pet Phil or Lady. Patients whose lives were turned inside out by cancer found a smile for Lady's exuberant joy at meeting them. Oct. 2002 brought a new challenge, Phil's wrist was bothering him. A trip to the vet confirmed his wrist was broken due to cancer in the bone. We made the tough decision to remove the leg (a great source of pain) and hoped it had not metastasized. The vet gave him three months. Phil was happy as a tri pod and played in the snow and ran after balls. Sadly Lady collapsed on March 31st 2003 while playing in the back yard. She passed quietly in the care of the vet, her death was attributed to a stroke. She was the light and energy of this couple and greatly missed. Emma our Siamese who had paid little attention the dogs became Phil's companion. It was as if she sensed his loss and was comforting him. Within two months of Ladies death we lost Philip to the cancer.

During this time period I suffered an injury to my back and had Microdiscectomy surgery. I spent many many hours pre surgery on the floor flat on my back. It was during this time that I began wondering where my life was going to go from here, the loss of Lady and Phil, and the loss of my ability to volunteer or work. While my surgery was successful in removing the large herniation of disc material it was only partially effective as far as being pain free. The scaring left me with L5 Foraminal Stenosis with Nerve Root Impingement. It was at this time while flat on my back with my Siamese around me that I returned to my childhood dream of breeding. There had been no breeders in my area of the country when I purchased my cats, I could help the breed and fill a need. I began talking to my husband about the possibility. Our children were now old enough that they didn't need me, I proudly watch them surpass my academic achievement at their age. They are all straight A students and genuinely nice people. I am still here for them but the time consuming roll of Mom is waning. It was the right time if I was ever going to make this dream come true. My husband agreed and I began the process of becoming a breeder. As any good breeder will tell you it is not easy to find breeders who will be willing to sell to you. I wanted only CFA registered bloodlines with no inbreeding. Finding my breed stock was part work searching out other breeders and part luck finding one who would sell with breeding rights. I feel I was very lucky to find Ohio breeder Laura Turner. She understood the struggle and had a Seal point kitten available for me. My husband took off two days and drove to Laura's home. I was still having a real hard time finding a male locally. I made the decision I would have to fly one in. I purchased my male from breeder Louis Azcarate. My dream became a reality.

* A hobby breeder can have no more then three breeding females. If more then three females are owned then they are required to be licenced by the the MDFA under regulation 330 CMR.-Licensing and Operation of Pet Shops

All images, text, and all other contents of this site are protected by copyright law.
The contents of this site may not be reproduced, distributed, exhibited, published, or used in any form, in whole or in part, without prior written permission from the copyright holder.